True, New Orleans had hardly fully recovered from the storm--indeed, much of the city still resembled a book that had dried crinkled after getting wet--but the heart and soul of New Orleans had survived in its enduring spirit, and that is something Jazz Fest 2006 proved tenfold.
After withstanding a sunburn, several all-nighters, and a few too many beignets, here are the top five highlights of this writer's first weekend at Jazz Fest.
5. Second-Line Parade Through The French Quarter With The Algiers Brass Band
Integral to this writer's New Orleans trip was attending the wedding of two friends who met at Jazz Fest several years ago; they'd decided to keep their celebration planned for this year's Jazz Fest in New Orleans, even after Katrina hit. White handkerchiefs and summer dresses billowed through the streets of the French Quarter as the Algiers Brass Band shepherded wedding guests through the winding streets, following a ceremony filled with Big Easy flavor. More than 160 people came from across the country and the world to witness both the nuptials and the magic of this recovering city. "More than anything, we wanted to contribute to the rebuilding effort, and knew that bringing people and a wedding celebration to NOLA would help, even if only a little," explained the groom.
4. Kids' Gospel Choir At The Fairgrounds' Gospel Tent
An early stop at Jazz Fest was the Gospel Tent, and the first words uttered by the exuberant children's choir leader were: "Most of the people you see standing here aren't living here." It was heartening to see the huge crowd come out to support these kids, especially since there were so many competing acts playing all day at the festival. The choir leader then asked where people in the audience were from, and everyone quickly realized they were sitting among music lovers from all corners of the globe--Chicago, New York, Arkansas, even West Africa. Families sang along, teenagers with dreads got into the soulful groove, and tourists kept snapping their cameras, trying to capture the unstoppable rhythm.
3. Stanton Moore's Drum Clinic Tower Records
Taking onlookers through a short history of how funk and jazz drumming came to be, Galactic's Stanton Moore told of his experiences playing with the greats and exuded passion for his inspirations, from Led Zeppelin to Count Basie. Spectators learned more about New Orleans music in an hour from Moore's instore drum clinic on Decatur Street than they probably did in five days of hanging out with artists and going to shows. Moore wrapped up the set with a special treat: his solo from "Angel Nemali." Brilliant.
2. Johnny Sketch & The Dirty Notes At Carrollton Station
Seeing these seven classically trained musicians create a blend of true New Orleans funk, rock, and jazz in a crowded bar encapsulated what the New Orleans scene is all about: great music, lots of energy, unassuming dives, and dedicated fans. Melding a traditional guitar-rock sound with violin and sax, trumpet, and solid drums, they started off the set with a rendition of "Funkytown" and continued through with their original tunes, like the smooth "Sweet Chalmette." The New Orleans-based band had been on tour since Hurricane Katrina, an experience which had clearly influenced their sound. "We got a lot of new meaning out of a lot of our songs," Johnny Sketch, aka guitarist/vocalist Mark Paradis, said. "Songs that were written about other things suddenly became a lot more meaningful to us."
1. U2 's The Edge With Dave Matthews Band At The Fairgrounds
The inimitable Etta James had just wrapped up her sassy, soulful set in the Blues Tent, when over on the main stage Dave Matthews uttered the magic words, "Ladies and gentlemen, I have a special guest here with me today: Please welcome...the Edge." Watching arguably the best rock guitarist in the world jamming with fiddle-master Boyd Tinsley was simply unforgettable. Sporting his "Music Rising" shirt, the Edge played his heart out on a new tune about carrying on after disaster strikes. They jammed for at least 15 minutes, and everyone went nuts. And after the Edge left the stage, Dave finished out his set with an amazing cover of Buffalo Springfield's "For What It's Worth," followed by his own "Louisiana Bayou."
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